I am a meat eater. But, sitting in a little café in Greenside, Johannesburg, peppered with posters declaring that “straws suck” and “there is no culture left in commercial agriculture”, I ate a burger made entirely from plants.

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If I had not known it wasn’t a beef patty, I might well have been fooled.

The texture was remarkably meat-like to my admittedly unsophisticated palate.