I had forgotten how verdant Durban is: how lusciously green and warm it remains even in the winter. From the airport on the north coast, boundless fields of sugar cane stand at attention, giving way, gradually, to shacks, houses and factories as the freeway heads towards the Indian suburb of Reservoir Hills where the funeral of photographer Ranjith Kally was to be held.

It’s been almost 15 years since I left Reservoir Hills, where I grew up and spent more than half my life, and as the car approached the Clare Estate Hindu Crematorium on the banks of the Umgeni River, I tried to remember how many of my own family I’d said goodbye to at the same hall as a boy.

Just next to the crematorium is the Papwa Sewgolum Municipal Golf Course.