The problem is not so much the ice cream itself, but the support infrastructure inexorably linked with customer demands regarding ice cream.“When you bring [baked] beans you can have dents in those tins, they are fine,” says Evan. “Ice cream, you bring it and it is a little melted at the top, they say: ‘No, we don’t pay you for this’ and then you have to eat all the ice cream.

”The specific thermal tolerance of ice cream has become an area of close study for Evan and his crew in recent weeks.